Sunday. 6/4/2008

We've filled the tanks. Pumped the tyres, and stocked the fridge with snacks. We're setting off to find some better paying work in a nice place to live. Our first, and most promising call, is to Coral Bay, where there seems a really good job for both of us at a van park. We should be there tomorrow afternoon providing The Lyndon River, that is in flood today and blocking roads past Carnarvon, has gone down by then.

After saying goodbye to friends at the Batavia Coast van park, we got underway about 8.00am. We had planned to buy a loaf of fresh bread at Sunset Beach on our way, but forgot. "Next town" I said, but the bakery was not open as we went through. Well, there had to be something open at the next town, but it became obvious that there was no next town, just three roadhouses.

We got to the first roadhouse, Billabong, at midday. "No bread" they said. Waiting for the bread truck to arrive. Overland was the next roadhouse, and we got there at 1.00pm. Yes, they had bread. Four dollars a small loaf, but at least we were able to have our sandwiches for lunch.

The country we were passing through was very much like that coming into Norseman in the South. There were lots of cattle grids across the road - many more than through the Nullarbour. The closer we got to Carnarvon, the greener things got. Then pools of water could be seen by the side of the road, gradually growing in size. A couple of times, the water was part way over the road. The edges of the road were very wet, and there were quite a few places where vehicles had made deep tracks in the wet dirt. We did not try going off the road to stop and take some pictures. It was not worth getting bogged.

Quite close to Carnarvon we found the worst of the water so far. It was flowing over the whole road, about six inches deep. We watched a few other cars driving through it, and finally ventured in. It was very easy and stable in the truck, and we were through it quickly, and then on to Carnarvon for fuel and some extra groceries.

We headed out of town to try to find a good camp sight for the night, when we found a manned "road closed" sign. All roads north from town were closed. They expected them to be open tomorrow, but no one was going though today. We backtracked and found a parking bay outside town to camp overnight.

Monday. 7/4/2008

Our overnight parking spot proved to be rather good. There was hardly any traffic at all, and no one else came near to park.

When we got to where the roadblock was last night, it was gone, so we continued onwards. Quite a long way onwards we came to the water over the road. There were two government utes leading convoys through the water. One at a time from each end. The guided section lasted for about a kilometer, and then there were several unguided, smaller sections a bit further on.

The truck handled the water crossings really well, and with its bigger wheels, the hubs never saw water.

When we got to the Coral Bay turnoff, there was the dreaded "Road Closed" sign again. We parked in a rest spot there. Set up the generator to run the much needed air conditioner, and waited. We found there was no phone reception, and therefore no internet either. Also no TV reception. Outside there were six million small flies, so with not much else to do, we cooked dinner and waited to see if the road would be reopened soon.

We watched as others came, saw the sign, and turned around. No one stayed like us, preferring to continue to the other access road 110k further on. In the end, we got word from some English travelers that the river was two meters over the road, so we decided take the long road too.

A little distance on, we found another lot of water over the road. It was quite shallow and as we were slowly going through it, a 4 wheel drive came in the other direction at high speed. Dirty water sprayed everywhere, and they just kept on coming. As they passed we could see it was a women driving. No one else had been that rude to date.

The ground was very green from all the rain, but we were soon quite startled to see very tall, strange shaped mounds. They just started suddenly, and then were everywhere. Either termites or ants must have made them. It was hard to find somewhere to pull off to take a picture because the road edges were either very soft, or completely washed away. Eventually we were able to get some shots.

As we got closer to Coral Bay the scenery was very sparse. No trees, just stunted bushes and large ant mounds. On the road into the Bay there were three large 2-bladed wind turbines. Obviously they get some wind there. As we drove in, it reminded me of Nelson, but once we found the town, it was more like Carpenters Rocks. There were parents with children all over the roads heading to and from the water.

The parks seemed pretty busy with families, even though it was not peak time. It certainly is a popular area, though we were not as excited by it as we thought. We decided to not take the job, but to keep on moving north. We are just not used to busy parks, as these seaside holiday ones are.

We camped for the night on an old roadworks gravel dump. It was a great site, but could not get any TV reception. Did not matter too much as we had had a very tiring day.

Tuesday. 8/4/2008

We arose early, from the early night. Took a photo of the sunrise behind our camp, and we got underway as the sun was becoming full. We backtracked the hundred odd k's to the main road, and set of north again. It was still over 100k's to the next fuel so we had to switch our back-up tank on. Diesel was $1.89 at Coral Bay, so we did not get any when we were there.

The scenery changed as we got further into the Pilbarra. Started to see the very ancient weathered messas all around. It is a fascinating area to see geology first hand. Its such an old landscape, just crumbling to dust.

We had planned to stop for snacks at the next roadhouse, Nanutarra, and had been anticipating the lovely chips for two hours. When we saw their price - $5.75 for a cup - we thought better of it, and headed off up the road to cook some from our freezer at a roadside stop. Their petrol was over $1.90.

As we came into Karartha, there was a very long ore train just starting to cross the road. We stopped at the roadhouse outside town, as according to the book, they had free camping and water. I had filled one of the fuel tanks before we found out there was no water, so we just paid for that and left, thinking we would find somewhere on the roadside. Well we traveled, and traveled, but there was nothing. A lot of mine vehicles, but all parking bays looked like they had been purposely made tiny. Not a very welcoming area at all, but we had been told this by others. Pity I had bought that tank of fuel!

The roads had been excellent. Wide and smooth. Much better than NSW and Victoria. There had been many cattle grids, and there seem no end to them. The other thing was the dead cows by the roadside. Obviously killed by traffic. Their hides and heads seem to remain for a long time.

It was starting to get dark, and we were very tired. Camps4 book listed the Whim Creek pub as a good camping spot. We decided to try to make it and treat ourselves to a counter meal for tea. When we finally got there, after passing a couple of good looking side-of-the-road spots, it did not look great. I had to stay with the truck because of the people standing around in the carpark while Lyn went to ask. The result was we could park in the carpark overnight if we bought a meal in the pub. For the last four years, the mine had been taking their accommodation. We decided better of it, and left.

Desperate now, we were trying to find a spot in the headlights. A parking bay looked good, so we pulled in and set up. It proved to be excellent, except for the insects. Mainly grasshoppers about 6cm long. One got inside, and Zebbie spent ages watching it, while several trapped themselves in our vents, and spent the night 'clicking' against the cover, trying to get out. There was no TV coverage, but we had phone coverage, so a few people got calls until it was time for sleep.

Wednesday. 9/4/2008

It was a beautiful sunrise. There had been hardly any traffic at all on the road overnight. We set off early for Port Hedland, and got there a bit after nine. The heat hit you even then. the forecast was for 39, and I think it was close already. It was certainly a mining town with all the heavy industry and ore trains. Not very pretty at all. We wanted a bakery, but ended up finding Woollies, and stocked up there. Took some pics of the port, and tried to get the rubber for the van shocker, but no luck. Lyn, however, found a Collingwood souvenir she wanted, so maybe it was not all bad. We filled up all fuels and water, and headed off toward Broome.

The countryside was green, but desolate. There was only three roadhouses between here and Broome. That is all. There were some dirt roads off to stations, with some of them offering camping. For the first time, we saw kangaroos crossing the road. There was very little traffic on the road, with some very long straight stretches of very good road.

Pulled into a rest area to cook dinner and found water on the van floor. It was coming from under the refrigerator. After pulling the access panels outside, found that the defrost drain hose had been pushed inside when we were cleaning the van and the defrost water was running out inside the van. Since it was so hot outside, the fridge was struggling to keep its cool, and the ice that was on the cooler fins was melting, and ending up on the floor and carpet. We fixed the hose, and the very hot day took care of the spilt water quite quickly.

The Sandfire roadhouse was the last, with nearly 300k to the next. Luckly we had the large fuel tanks.

We had planned to stop at Stanley rest area, about 100k past Sandfire roadhouse. It was recommended in all the books, so we kept going toward it. When we got there, it was a corrigated track off the road to a large area of tracks and camp spots. unfortunately, others were already there, and non of them had power. The rule is - first in sets the tone, so really we were not to run our generator. Well it was 37 in the van, and we parked as far away as we could and started the Yamaha. There was no phone or TV, so we ended up watching a film on the computer while we tried to cool the van. Shut down the power about 8.30 and went to bed. It was very hot still, and sticky.

Thursday. 10/4/2008

It was hot, and as the sun came up there was fog everywhere. Heaps of dew on everything outside, and I was able to wipe down some of the dirt on the truck. The fog stayed with us for many miles, and in places even got thicker.

We got into Roebuck Plains Roadhouse before ten, and arranged a site for two nights in their park. It was not too bad for a roadhouse park. We were right near the laundry, so Lyn immediately did her washing. With the heat it dried very quickly. We had expected TV reception, being just 30K from Broome, but nothing! I ended up getting out the satalite dish and seeing what could be found. Took several hours, but finally had found and set up the receiver for the three Aussie satelites, but without the proper card, there was not much worth watching, unless you liked 13 channels of religion.

About 4, we drove into Broome for some cat food. Found a Coles, and got the roo, then took a quick look around the town. Had to be careful not to run over some of our indiginious brothers and sisters lying on the road side, and those who chose to just wander across the street without looking. They were also in the parks and carparks. Apart from that, the town was quite nice. Plenty of greenery, and a much more tropical feel.

Went on to Cable beach, and parked in the carpark there. Went walking to see the beach, and it was one of the best beaches I have ever seen. There were a lot of people there, as it was coming on sunset, so I walked on the sands taking some photos and waiting.

The sunset itself was magnificent. The combination of the tropical heat, humidity, sand, water and sun was superb. It was a scene you would remember and come back to over and over.

Friday. 11/4/2008

We will have to get used to these hot mornings! 7.30 and its 30.8C and humid outside already. About 8, we drove into Broome and went to Cable Beach again to see it in the daylight. Then followed the coast along and ended up driving on the beach itself in the mighty Isuzu. Not too far with its heavy weight, but all was well, so we can say we have driven on Cable Beach.

Went on to the port and then back to the city centre. Had some more shopping to do. Lyn got some photos printed and bought some more smaller undies, while I bought some large padlocks for the gear on the back of the truck. With all the people in the streets and parks, I thought we had better increase security, particularly since we will be heading further north.

It was a hot afternoon in the van, even with the air conditioner flat out. The sun was hitting the side windows, and just heating things up. Zebbie was just lying on the bed waiting for tea time. It did not seem to bother her much at all.

Now we just have to fill the fuel tanks and top up the water, and we are ready to hit the road again in the morning.

The trip continues to Kununurra - click here to follow.